Let's talk about Auguste, a new Italian restaurant in Hackney, London, that's making waves and raising some intriguing questions. The name, inspired by a clown, sets the tone for a unique dining experience. As I stepped into the restaurant, I couldn't help but notice the Edward Hopper painting, 'Soir Bleu', hanging on the wall. It depicts a clown, a symbol of the hospitality industry's resilience and the challenges it faces. This painting, a century old, feels like a poignant reminder of the industry's struggles.
Auguste has taken over the former Papi space, transforming it into an Abruzzo-inspired haven. While the concept remains similar, with small plates and low-intervention wines, the new owners have added their own twist. The room now boasts white tablecloths, and the star attraction is their arrosticini skewers, tiny kebabs grilled to perfection. It's a trend that's catching on, with live-fire cooking becoming a signature of London's hospitality scene.
The Experience
On a busy Wednesday night, we arrived early and were greeted by a bustling crowd. It felt like the old Papi regulars had followed the restaurant's move, a testament to its popularity. The arrosticini, offered in three varieties, arrived just before dessert, a testament to the relaxed, small plates dining style. The skewers, with their dipping sauces, were a highlight, but I found myself craving a bit more substance.
The menu, with its Abruzzo influence, offered a range of dishes. We started with potato rösti topped with a creamy blue cheese, a delicious combination, although the rösti could have been crisper. The cured sea bream with puttanesca salsa was a standout, although the salsa could have been a bit more refined to complement the delicate fish.
The cappelletti in broth was authentic and satisfying, while the fresh asparagus with peas and wild garlic cream was a delightful spring dish. The chicken saltimbocca, wrapped in prosciutto and sage, was the star, with its rich jus. However, the meal as a whole felt disjointed, a common pitfall of small plates restaurants.
Dessert and Reflection
Dessert was a simple affair, with just two options. The vanilla semifreddo was a refreshing choice, but the tart, while rustic and edible, lacked refinement. As I reflected on the meal, I realized that Auguste has potential, with its unique concept and loyal fan base. However, there's room for improvement, especially in the consistency of the dishes.
What makes Auguste fascinating is its ability to capture the essence of Abruzzo while adding a modern twist. The restaurant's identity, inspired by a clown, adds a layer of intrigue. Personally, I think it's a brave move to name a restaurant after a clown, but it works, creating a memorable dining experience. The live-fire cooking trend is an interesting development, showcasing the creativity of London's hospitality scene.
In conclusion, Auguste offers glimpses of brilliance, but it's still finding its footing. With a dedicated fan base and a unique concept, it has the potential to become a destination for those seeking an Abruzzo-inspired adventure. As I left, I couldn't help but feel that Auguste is a work in progress, a restaurant with a story to tell and a journey to embark on.
